21 COMMENTS

  3. @ZmajSnoshaj,
    If the tuners are nasty it would be best to remove and clean them by hand. The blades are almost certainly aluminum, meaning the Naval Jelly would cause damage. Remember…Aluminum and Chrome don’t get along well with the jelly. Good luck with it.
    Thanks for watching.

    Regards,
    John

  4. I’ll have to give this a shot on my Majestic model 15 chassis… if I play my cards right I won’t have to remove both 3-condenser gangs… excellent video! Thumbs up 🙂

  5. Just wanted to remind everyone that Naval Jelly’s primary ingredient is ‘phosphoric acid’ (H3PO4). up to 30% of this product. So John, you actually are giving the chassis an acid bath. It is a good product. I’ve used it many times for removal of oxidation on the bottom of copper clad pots and pans.

  6. Mrweswtf,
    Naval Jelly works really good. In addition to rust, it also removed dirt film. Makes those chassis shine. Since uploading this video I’ve cleaned many more chassis with it. Hasn’t failed me yet.
    Just be sure not to use it on aluminum or chrome.
    Thanks for watching.

    Regards,
    John

  8. I use it all the time. I especially like that it doesn’t screw up paint.
    Thanks for watching.

    Regards,
    John

  10. @joernone There is a spray family made by Philips. These sprays can be found on electronic part shops in Europe, I don’t know about the U.S, but they use them here. They also have anti rust as well as the lubricant for different components. And sure they are made just for this purpose. They have small pipes attached to the can to help you applying them.

  12. Hi. Glad to hear from you.
    Naval Jelly can be found at just about any hardware store. Should cost less than $4.00 for an 8oz. bottle. It’s very mild phosphoric acid. If you happen to get any on your fingers or other skin just rinse it off with water. But don’t get any around or in your eyes. Follow the instructions on the label and all should work out fine.
    Thanks for watching.

    Regards,
    John

  14. Hammondlover2,
    You’re exactly right, Brasso (old Brasso, that is) does work well on aluminum, but from what I hear the new-formula Brasso is pretty bad stuff…doesn’t work half as good. Supposedly, environmentalists noticed an ingredient that they claimed polluted the environment, so the company changed the formula. What next?
    Thanks for watching.

    Regards,
    John

  15. You can use Brasso on the IF and electrolytic cans. Works really well. You just have to be careful not to rub off printed part numbers/values etc.

  16. Hello. Thank you for viewing my Youtube video. I appreciate it.
    I am unfamiliar with an Ekco receiver, but I know just the folks who will know all about it. They’re absolute radio experts and always willing to help.
    Google up ‘Antique Radio Forum’ and become a member. It’s totally free. You’ll need to create a user name and password, then post your Ekco question in the ‘Electrical/Mechanical Restoration’ section. I guarantee you’ll get an answer.
    Hope to see you there.

    Regards,
    John

  17. I am getting an Ekco A.110; the chassis has rust but it is not too bad.The biggest problem is there is no tuning at all; instead it has 4 pre set stations. Is there a way of retuning these presets to the frequencies of my local stations? I would appreciate your expert opinion as I am nine years old, and have just started learning about radios, frequencies, and the electromagnetic spectrum. Please reply either here, or to my youtube account.

  19. Holy cow was also my reaction. I had no idea if the jelly would actually do the job. Just had to share the results with others. It’ll be a while before I do another vid. Have to gather up more equipment. Hopefully, one of my next two vids will involve hard-wiring an isolation transformer into a transformerless radio. Wish me luck.

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